Day 25 – Adventures in the old city

Istanbul, Sultanahmet

Thursday, 10 October 2013

We had planned a full day of site-seeing in the old city so decided to take the funicular and metro directly to the Sultanahmet rather than walking.

Our first stop was the Sultan Ahmed or Blue Mosque, so called because of the more than 20,000 handmade blue ceramic tiles adorning the walls of its interior. The story goes that the sultan ordered the production of these tiles from Iznet city (Nicaea) exclusively for the mosque and tied up production for 5 years. Here we had to queue for a short while before taking off our shoes and carrying them in the plastic bags provided. I had to cover my head with my scarf and Anthony wore jeans as knees must be covered also.

It was just amazing – carpeted floor and so many different varieties of Iznet tiles.

Feeling compelled to take photos of all the different patterns!

 

 

Entrance to Blue Mosque was free but you were asked to make a donation on exiting for which you got a receipt.

Next stop was the Hagia Sophia where we bought an Istanbul Museum pass for 85 lira. This is another must see in Istanbul. The scale is just enormous and patterns are created from the many different marbles used on the interior. There are also some wonderful examples of Byzantine mosaics.

I was taking photographs when Anthony was “picked up” by the a professional looking man in a suit. It turned out that Ahmet used to work for the Ministry of Culture as the assistant manager of the Hagia Sophia. Ahmet decided that he would take us for a personal tour of Istanbul – I don’t think we had a choice! Apparently he turns up regularly in his suit and tie to get away from his wife’s talking! I think he is only recently retired as he was born in the same year as Anthony but looked much older – that’s what smoking does to you.

And so began our old city adventure where we followed where Ahmet led!

 

Ahmet took us to the best vantage points of the Hagia Sophia,

then behind it to the little visited baptismal font

and a mausoleum to a dead sultan (not sure who) but wonderful tiling throughout.

We did consider giving Ahmet the slip but along the way we met an American woman who he’d befriended yesterday and she sang his praises.

We stopped for Turkish tea at the Madrasa which had been the site of a religious school but was now home to an artists community. Anthony paid for the tea whilst Ahmet paid for my visit to the toilet. He greeted people along the way seeming to know everyone we met.

Then he took us to the little known 1500 year old Roman cistern with free admission that has been turned into a 5 star restaurant.

Then to the Basilica Cistern – “get 20 lira ready for entrance fee” – and Ahmet bought the tickets and fast racked us through the queue. This was just amazing, just like a movie set (it did feature in To Russia with Love and also plays a role in the latest Dan Brown book). It is all softly lit, the 336 pillars reflecting on the water where hundreds of fresh water carp swim.

The piece de resistance were the heads of medusas reused from Ancient Greek temples – one resting on its cheek and the other upside down.

 

To finish the visit we had a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice in the Basilica cafe which is apparently managed by Ahmet’s son! Tasted a bit tarty but very refreshing.

We then travelled by tram and changed at Topaki for a smaller train, and walked a little distance beyond the old city walls to the Church of St Saviour in Chora. At the station Ahmet struck up a conversation with an Asian girl who was looking at a map board. It turns out that she was also looking for the Chora church, so she ended walking with us. She is now living in Istanbul after divorcing her Turkish husband. Ahmet liked her and said he would ask his daughter who works as a travel agent to give her a job.

The Chora church dates from the 14th century and has the most beautiful mosaics and frescos. It’s considered one of greatest Byzantine treasures. We definitely wouldn’t have found it on our own.

I had asked Ahmet where I could buy ceramics, so our next stop was the nearby Firca showroom which produces authentic replicas of Iznik designs. They offered us apple tea, a sure sign that they expected us to buy something expensive. We had a private viewing of how the individual pieces are handmade using a Potters wheel. Then upstairs to the “masterpieces” which are their one off designs with a high quartz content. One plate costs more than US$1400 but shipping is free! We did buy a couple of pieces but more everyday items – a large bowl and platter that I won’t be worried about using.

 

Now a little stressed, we needed lunch. Ahmet took us to a local cafe where he knew the owner. It was a very small with about 6 tables and we had choice of 2 dishes with rice and burghul – 53 lira for the three of us.

Next stop was a metro ride to see 1453 Panorama history museum depicting the fall of Constantinople by the Turks.

 

Our Istanbul card had run out of credit but Ahmet had a spare which he uses for the diplomats that he regularly escorts!

Next a tram to the Grand bazaar where we met Ahmet’s cousin Ali and his daughter Rhianna for tea and coffee in his carpet showroom. More pressure.

“Escaped” from Ahmet before we could see the Sultanhmet mosque, Anthony claiming that I was very tired! We were going to walk home but Ahmet helped us to put some more credit on our Istanbul card and escorted us to the tram stop so we had no choice but to board the tram!

It has been a surprising day.

 

 

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